Mark Haisma Morey St Denis 1C Les Chaffots 2017
- Burgundy,Cote de Nuits
- Pinot Noir
Nose a smoky-dark thing, of rocky minerals with a suspicion of mint. Nutty, too. Palate is savoury, serious and structured. Fruit is blue and black and, within, one finds the super-fine, quite assertive tannin. A very long and fresh thing. A thing of class and precision. Bowes Wine original note "This has wonderful archetypal Morey perfume: peppery and lightly floral (more peony than roses) and crushed rocks. Fragrant and refined. Not showy. Then that peppery quality on the palate and the gentle scent and finest of tannins. It’s both sober and scented. A beauty." Julia Harding MW
Australian Mark Haisma left the relative comfort of being winemaker at Yarra Yerring to become an honorary Burgundian, making various micro-cuvées of the some of the most famous appellations in the world. One imagines it can’t have been easy breaking in to a fairly closed world, where stripes are often earned through generational heritage. However, with his infectious energy, drive and charm Mark has quickly built a thriving négociant business with a loyal market for his wines. He likes to make wines which, in his words, are ‘good to drink’ but at the same time he has enormous respect for the subtleties and nuances of the individual vineyards that make Burgundy the unique place it is, and one senses that it’s this element of the whole process that really excites him. These wines very much reflect Mark’s approach. They are wonderfully approachable yet one tastes the appellation not the winemaker. We are delighted to be distributing these wines and look forward to the next stage of business when Mark finally buys some land! The St Romain comes from 50 year old vines on classic stony soil, which imparts a lovely sapidity to the wine. The Volnay is very classic on the nose but with good stuffing in the mouth. The Nuits is quite rich, giving texture and weight to a sometimes lean appellation. The Gevrey is mineral and gravelly yet quite exhuberant. The Chaffots, which sits just above the Clos de la Roche on quite rocky soil, has some whole bunch which gives it delightful aromatics and the Bonnes Mares, of which sadly there is only a little, is muscular and structured and rather impressive.